Monday, September 3, 2012

....................to the Banks of Godari Ganga


Hmm, come summer, come mangoes!
                             Early on Tuesday morning, we headed for Bhadrachalam. We reached Vijayawada to pick up Uncle’s elder brother who was eager to have the blessings of Lord Rama. On his suggestion of a ‘shorter route’, we got stuck on narrow village roads for nearly an hour and a half, but I got the chance of clicking a tree full of tender mangoes and a flock of sheep.  I also saw a standing crop of corn- I just loved it, even if our ‘Driver Mama’ got annoyed.

The flock of sheep that excited me but annoyed my uncle
                To reach Bhadrachalam, we crossed the Godavari bridge beyond which we spotted the temple tower. Excitedly I began to sing, “Adigo Bhadradri, Gouthami Idigo Choodandi” (Yonder, we can see the  Bhadradri and here, we can see the Godavari).
Alas, it was summer, so the river had almost dried up. So, it was a case of “Gowthami idigo ledandi” (we can’t find the Godavari here). Now, you might wonder why I added the word Ganga to the title. If you were a Telugu filmy music lover, you would know of a song from the 1990 film, ‘Seetharamayya gari Manavaralu’, that Ganga arrived on earth as Godavari,  just to ‘wash the feet of Bhadragiri Ramayya’! Around 4 p.m., we started for Sri Ramagiri, about 40kms away. We drove into the interior of the Vali- Sugreeva sanctuary/ Dandakararanya and found fields on either side of a narrow, deserted road. At Sri Ramagiri, there was a rock alongside a brook where Goddess Sita was said to have dried her saree. We could get yellow and maroon stones, symbolizing turmeric and vermillion respectively, over there. There was a part of the brook, covered on all sides by dense trees, which served as Sita’s private bath.
Sita's private bath
The image of Sita. We could get the yellow- and- maroon stones here
 There was a rock, named after Surpanakha, which visitors stoned. There was a ‘Parnasala’ (weed cottage), which was a part of a Telugu film, ‘Sri Ramadasu’.
From the 'Parnasala'

From the 'Parnasala'

From the 'Parnasala'



From the 'Parnasala'

      






































































We prayed at a Rama temple on the banks of the Godavari. When told about a boat ride, we excitedly got into the country boat and enjoyed the twenty- minute ride. We got to learn over there that Lord Rama’s Vasantotsavam, which happens on a boat in the river, was taking place, of late, in Sri Ramagiri and not in Bhadrachalam, because of the shallow waters over there. Is it the same old place where a flood in the river became a threat to the temple long ago, I wondered.
Sunset on the River Godavari at Sri Ramagiri with the Papikondalu in the background

 After the ride, against the backdrop of a clear sky, we saw a beautiful sunset and returned to Bhadrachalam after having a look at the ‘loving face’ of a statue of Sabari at the Pournami cottage of the A.P. Tourism Department.



            
The doting Sabari at the Pournami Cottage, Bhadrachalam

Sabari feeds Rama with tasted fruits, Pournami Cottage, Bhadrachalam



























On Wednesday, after the rituals concerning the visit to the temple got over, we headed back home. This time the ‘Driver Ramudu’ a.k.a Uncle decided to navigate the route himself, and we travelled via Khammam to save an hour of travel, dropped the elder uncle on the banks of the River Krishna in Vijayawada( Goddess Kanaka Durga may please excuse us for not visiting Her, in spite of being in Her place on two consecutive days), reached home, freshened up, completed dinner and got on to the train to Chennai.

                Looking back, the arduous journeys were extremely enjoyable, weren’t they? They could also be considered as journeys from Seshachalam to Nallamala to Dandakaranya.
********************************************************************************(concluded)

8 comments:

irnewshari said...

Glad to know information about temples in Bhadrachalam. If possible give information such as distance from popular places, travelling time and availability of various means of transport. This will help people who may plan a visit.

A.Hari

Mediocre to the Core said...

thanks for the idea, @hari! here's a link.
http://www.holidayiq.com/destinations/Bhadrachalam-Overview.html
but Bhadrachalam can be reached by road, and the nearest railhead is kothagudem(khammam dist)..........On the trunk route, one has to get off at Khammam and travel by road. I wrote this piece originally for my aunt who took me there, and excitedly I posted it on the blog, unmindful of readers who would like to know more about a lesser- known place! Sorry, folks...I keep this in mind for the future...

Nanda said...

Cool one again. A visit there is on my cards too this year. Did you do the "launch" trip from Rajahmundry to Bhadrachalam too sometime? I hear that trip on Godavari is quite exciting too. And how did you find the temple's upkeep? I hear it's getting a little bad now-a-days?

And you do love your sunsets, don't you? Caught a cool one here too.

Also, in addition to the 2 beautiful songs you mentioned, another song is on my lips, but can only recollect vaguely. It went like "Adigo Gowthami Idigo Bhadradri, Ramadasu Nirminchina Alayam...". Don't remember anything more than that. I think I remember Susheela's melodious voice behind this song, but not sure. Must have been a film song and about 30 years old mostly. Strikes a bell with you?

Mediocre to the Core said...

You are right, Nanda! I love the Sun & the sea. Thank u.

May Lord bless u with a nice darsan. The launch trip from Rajahmundry to Bhadrachalam is an as yet unfulfilled wish. I learnt that the water level at Bhadrachalam has been so low of late that even Lord Rama's Teppotsavam is now being held in Pochavaram /Perantapalle. Also heard that the launch is now terminating at Perantapalle. I was back in Bhadrachalam on Sriramanavami but it was hot and hard to sit thru the proceedings (one of us got dehydrated too, causing some anxious moments). I did not observe the cleanliness in the temple very keenly.......was a little too excited!

I didn't get the song, not even on Google. I guess I'll ask around and give details, if available.

Mediocre to the Core said...

Oh, forgot to add..I went on a boat ride on the papi kondalu....it was great. I did write a travelogue of it, but contains a lot of names. Will edit it and post in a day or two as a comment on this page... keep watching this space...

Mediocre to the Core said...

Here is the extract..I could improve the presentation, but I hope u'll bear with it..

"We went through the Vali- Sugreeva Reserve Forest into the interior, until we reached Pochavaram, beyond which there was no road or electrical connectivity. We had to walk through the sands for a short while before reaching the launch which had an air- conditioned lower deck and a covered upper deck. We moved to the upper deck once the launch set sail. Some music was being played on a stereo and one of the boys belonging to the boat wanted to by-pass the songs from ..you guessed it right, ‘Orange’, and I made him play them! We see a few boats without movement and with a single occupant. I am told that they are fishing boats, and that the fishermen carry their lunch packs and water with them since they sit through the day. We were to see a lot of idling boats at Perantapalli. They had been made of palmyra timber.

"We got off at Perantapalli, a village where the Ramakrishna Mission had a self- sustaining Ashram where no donations were accepted and where photography was prohibited. It involved a fairly steep climb firstly through the sands (about 50-60 feet high, the flood height of the Godavari), and then through the steps. I would have kept off it but for my friend’s encouragement. A mountain brook flowed just outside the Ashram. We could see its fall from 50m above, but it must have originated at a higher point. Its course flattened in front of the Ashram, just as if to enable its visitors wash their feet before entering the premises (it was mandatory to do so). The brook then had a steep fall and flowed further down…whereto could not be gauged from there. En route, we found the locals selling pieces of art made with bamboo. A small girl of about 10 years, hair braided and seen with her mother, caught our attention. When I asked her for her name, her mother replied that she was mute. We still had a long way to reach the ashram, so I promised to buy one on our way back. We saw better made boats on our way up, but I kept my promise with this girl. I did not even think of not keeping the promise…I could always buy one, naa? Just above the flood level of the Godavari was a tamarind tree where a song from a super hit film was picturised. We clicked a few pictures there but any way, you have already seen most of them.

We set sail again, and stopped at Kolleru, the end point of Khammam district, for lunch. In the vicinity was Pamuleru (snake- brook, literally) which, I am told, killed hundreds every year. I am quick to ask if poisonous snakes caused the deaths, but learn about dangerous plants under water which entangle and pull swimmers down. We got the lunch served on our deck, and could see the Papi kondalu from there. My friend explains to me that the difference between Papi kondalu and the hills we crossed was that the Papi kondalu were higher and that the river became narrower and deeper near them. We could get into the East Godavari district by turning to the left and into the West Godavari district by turning to the right. We also found a tree at the hill top which resembled a Sivalinga. The branches of what was perhaps a coconut tree made it appear so from down below. In fact, there was a contest for identifying the tree first… refund of the fare! The announcer had a very peculiar way of speaking—elaborate and a live example of the Shashti Tatpurusha Samasam (you may ignore it if you are not familiar with High School Telugu Grammar). He would say, “Take care of your particular mobiles”, or, “This particular boat ride will take you to Papi kondalu”, (as if other boats in the area won't!!) so on and so forth. In due course, I referred to him as ‘that particular boy’ (Aa yokka Abbayi)! On our way back we had an entertainment programme on the lower deck, which we all enjoyed. It included the mock wedding of an already married couple!"

Nanda said...

Thank you for reproducing the extract here. And this particular travelogue about that paricular journey is so enjoyable. :) BTW, summer probably is not the best time for this trip - the water levels might be quite low. Right? Winter may be the best? I'm hoping I'll get to make this trip soon.

Also, I wanted to tell you about these 2 songs that I remembered from a long long time back. These were on the tip of my tongue yesterday, but couldn't properly recall. It took a lot of searching to find them. And the second one, I'm not sure if there's another version of it with diffferent singers, or if this is the version I heard back then. But try these nevertheless, if you haven't heard them - I'm sure you will enjoy them.
1. http://www.raaga.com/play/?id=193492
2. http://gaana.com/song/adhigo-gowthami-1980

But for extoling and singing about Lord Rama, nothing beats Balamurali's renditions of Ramadasa Keerthanas. Thakkuvemi manaku, Ye tiruga nanu, Pahi Rama prabho, in Balamurali's voice - one can really forget the world immersed in the heavenly beauty of the rendition.

Mediocre to the Core said...

Yes pl make it before the winter makes way to spring(Ramanavami is Chaitra Suddha Navami). Thanx for the two songs. I am familiar with Sri Rama namalu.....in my childhood, I was thorough with the lyrics..'Pavamana sutudu paadalu pattagaaa Pattabhi Ramayya parandhamudu...'. I don't think I've heard Adigo Gowthami before.... a good one..I'll listen 2 the whole album...thank u, and Good Night... I dont think i'll finish 'Man's search 4 meaning' 2de.......Seeghrameva Bhadrachala Sri Rama darsana kataksha siddhirastu.